Jordan has a strange haunting beauty and a sense of timelessness. Dotted with the ruins of empires once great it is the last resort of yesterday in the world of tomorrow. I love every inch of it.

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What creates freedom? A revolution in the streets? Mass protest? Civil war? A change of government? The ousting of the old guard and its replacement by the new? History more often than not shows that hopes raised by such events are often dashed sooner rather than later.