Surfing soothes me it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent peaceful and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.
There's more to life than movies.
It evolved from my experience in the fifties growing up during the McCarthy...
My dad used to say 'You wouldn't worry so much about what people thought about you if you knew how seldom they did.
